By Elizabeth Montgomery, Food Editor
Tucked away in the scenic Appalachian ridges of Western Maryland, the historic city of Cumberland is known for its rich railroad heritage and access to the Great Allegheny Passage. This season, the local culinary landscape is embracing a different kind of tradition. Just a stone’s throw from the brick-lined pedestrian mall downtown, the Wills Creek Mennonite Market has officially opened its doors, bringing an abundance of scratch-made baked goods, farm-fresh produce, and traditional deli offerings to Allegany County.
A Backstory Forged by the Railroad
The story of Wills Creek Market is one of family, heritage, and revitalizing history. The Martin family relocated to Western Maryland from the dense Mennonite communities of Franklin County, Pennsylvania, looking for more farmland and a quieter pace of life. For the past three years, the Martins became a staple at the downtown Cumberland Farmers Market, where their towering displays of fresh breads and vibrant preserves regularly sold out before mid-day.
Realizing that Cumberland residents were hungry for a year-round, permanent location, patriarch David Martin purchased an abandoned, early 20th-century brick warehouse near the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad tracks. Over the course of a year, the Martins and their extended community worked tirelessly to restore the building. They sandblasted the original brick, installed massive timber-framed display shelves, and built a state-of-the-art bakery in the back. Today, the once-empty warehouse is a bustling hub of community and craftsmanship.
Cultivating Comfort and Craft
Stepping into Wills Creek Mennonite Market is an immersive sensory experience. The high ceilings echo with the friendly chatter of neighbors catching up, while the air is thick with the aroma of cinnamon, woodsmoke, and rising yeast. The market is meticulously organized into distinct sections: a vibrant produce stand featuring seasonal local harvests, a fully stocked deli and butchery counter, and an expansive bakery case that demands your immediate attention. The Martin family’s dedication to quality is evident in every corner, with a strict adherence to unhurried, time-tested preparation methods.
Our Favorite Finds at Wills Creek
Whether you are packing provisions for a weekend biking trip along the C&O Canal or simply stocking your pantry for the week, the market is a treasure trove of hearty, wholesome foods. Here are a few standout favorites that you absolutely must add to your basket:
- Glazed Fruit Fry Pies: The undisputed stars of the bakery case. These handheld, half-moon pastries are filled with sweet, homemade fruit compotes—think tart cherry, spiced apple, and blackberry—before being fried to a golden, flaky crisp and coated in a light vanilla glaze.
- Hickory Smoked Turkey Breast: Sliced fresh at the deli counter, this turkey is smoked low and slow over real hickory wood by David Martin’s oldest sons. It is incredibly juicy, packed with smoky flavor, and free of the artificial preservatives found in standard grocery store deli meats.
- Traditional Pennsylvania Dutch Chow-Chow: A staple of the Mennonite pantry, this vibrant, tangy-sweet relish is made from a medley of pickled garden vegetables, including green beans, cauliflower, carrots, and corn. It is the perfect accompaniment to a hearty sandwich or a plate of roasted pork.
- Fresh-Baked Sourdough Boules: Baked before the sun comes up, these massive, crusty loaves of sourdough have a perfectly chewy interior and a complex, tangy flavor profile. They are ideal for dipping into soups or transforming into elevated grilled cheese sandwiches.
A Worthwhile Stop
Visiting Wills Creek Mennonite Market is more than just running a weekend errand; it is a grounding experience that connects the community to a slower, more intentional way of living. It is a chance to support a hardworking family while taking home food that was grown, baked, and prepared with genuine care. Be sure to arrive early on Saturday mornings—the line for those warm fry pies often stretches out the front door!